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Collecting Sub Cultures: Goth and Japanese Lolitas

Thursday, Apr 30, 2026 at 5:30 PM to 6:30 PM EDT

FIT Library, 277 W 27th , Goodman Resource Center, 6th floor, New York , New York , 10001, United States

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Thursday, Apr 30, 2026 at 5:30 PM to 6:30 PM EDT

FIT Library, 277 W 27th , New York , New York , 10001, United States.

For this third Archives Salon event, Collecting Sub Cultures: Goth and Japanese Lolitas, FIT Professor Summer Lee will be in conversation with Charlene Fossum to discuss the small collection of underground media, including magazines like Propaganda and Carpe Noctem, which she collected in her youth and recently donated to the archive. Charlene and Summer will discuss how underground media unified goth and dark subculture in the 1980s and 1990s, and explore its implications for contemporary scholars.

This event is taking place in FIT's Goodman Building located on the FIT campus at the SW corner of 27th St. and 7th Ave. This is the same building as the Museum at FIT and you will see plenty of signage to that effect. Take the elevator to the 4th floor. Special Collections is in room E435, directly to your left as you exit the elevators. 

 

Summer Lee is a fashion historian who holds an MA in Fashion and Textile Studies from FIT, where her qualifying paper was an exhibition project titled Emo: Spectrum of Subcultural Style. She has been teaching at FIT as an adjunct instructor since Fall 2023 and currently teaches Youth Subculture, Identity, and Fashion: A Sociological Perspective in the Social Sciences Department. 

Born and raised in suburban Philadelphia, Charlene Fossum became interested in goth subculture as a fan of British new wave and synthesizer-based music in the 1980s. Collecting magazines and catalogs was a way to keep abreast of alternative culture, and to share the styles, music, and interests with members of her local alternative community. She later became interested in Japanese culture and comics in the late 1980s, and began collecting manga, as well as culture and style magazines in the 1990s. Fossum attended the School of Visual Arts from 1990 to 1994, earning a BFA in illustration. She married in 1996 and came to reside in Brooklyn where she works on various personal projects of embroidered textile art and pointillism illustration. She donated her magazine collection to FIT's Special Collections to ensure it would be accessible for subculture studies.

 

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https://www.fitnyc.edu/academics/library/

The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) Library supports the academic and research needs of the FIT community. A well-selected collection of more than 197,000 volumes of print materials (and over 300,000 combined print, non-print, and electronic) supports the instructional programs in art and design, business and technology, liberal arts and our Graduate School. Collections also include specialized electronic and digital resources and materials not often found in conventional academic libraries, such as the fashion and trend forecasting services, sketch collections, clipping files, and fashion show DVDs. Our newspapers and periodicals include more than 400 current subscriptions and extensive back issue runs. Databases, provided by FIT, SUNYConnect, and the New York State Library, provide access to thousands of full-text journal articles, books, images, research reports and other resources.

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